Light
tonal scale
(Sun, 7 Feb 1999)
bring graphite pencil, kneaded
eraser, paper.
describing the drawing (artist,
title, medium, paper, description of subject, line, composition,
and anything else you'd like to add).
Scene
with very little light
(Homework assignment
number 1, due Wed., Feb. 17)
Drawing, @ 18 X 24, black and
white, of a scene with very little light. This is an exercise of
memory, imagination, and some logic, because nobody really draws
or paints in the dark. What shows in the dark and what doesn't?
Think about what disappears. Is there a focus of light somewhere
in the room? Squint when you look at your drawing to make sure that
your light focus is correct. Make sure this drawing reads as night
time. Go darker than you think you should. Go slow in building dark
values. Decide on the brightest part of your composition. Make sure
that you have your space planned out in your drawing (block out
a composition for yourself).
Draw a landscape (maybe a scene
from a window) or your room, or set up a still life for yourself.
Artists to look at: Seurat,
Goya
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Perspective
(Fri, 19 Feb 1999)
On Monday, we'll start working
a little more on perspective, and spend Wednesday working a one-point
interior space. Please work with one-point boxes above, below, and
on the horizon line (eye level) over the weekend.
Also change the vanishing point,
so that you work centered, and left and right of center. If this
is confusing to you, it really shouldn't be --
it's exactly all of you have
already done in the work you showed me (one-point boxes in different
locations on your picture plane). Please just do it again. We'll
start applying it on Monday. Bring pencils this time; you'll also
be working on line and a linear buildup of value.
Also for Monday: Bring the
drawings to resolution that you worked on Wednesday, and turn them
in to me (make sure your names are on them). I also want you to
block out the composition that you have used (that should take no
more than 5 minutes).
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Egg
drawings
(Tue, 23 Feb 1999)
You should be working on the
egg drawings that we did in class, and that is due this Monday,
March 1 (don't bring the drawings tomorrow, since we'll be at the
Union and it's too much to carry). Work on careful line, accurate
light, and perfect rendering. Remember to shade in the direction
of the plane of the egg (i.e., you don't want flat lines to represent
a curved surface). Try for subtlety and delicacy.
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1-point
perspective drawings
(Wed, 24 Feb 1999)
Bring 1-point perspective drawings
closer to completion. Make sure it has a 3-dimensional feel to the
space. If you're having problems, remember to just go back to the
cubes on the horizon: this is remarkably similar to what you are
doing. Talk to me Monday if you feel you didn't get it, and you
can do a fairly quick hall study. The hall study is straightforward,
and I guarantee that you will get 1-pt perspective after trying
it one more time.
I'd like the egg studies on
Monday, March 1. I'd like to see what you have so far, and this
should be done or 3/4 done.
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Copy
of an old master's drawing
(Homework assignment
number 2 due March 8 )
1:1 copy, use the same medium/media
and paper (including preparing the paper if the artist did); this
will require some educated guesswork. Do not choose a tiny drawing.
Use an acetate grid to put over the drawing you have chosen to copy.
The grid should be marked with a very fine-tip Sharpie in what you
feel is a comfortable grid size for you (default size, 1 inch, but
you can go larger or smaller: I personally like to use a 2-centimeter
grid). Draw the same grid on your paper and copy. You should attempt
to get this as close as possible to the original drawing in line,
shading, medium, everything. Let me know who you would like to copy.
This project is not a creative
work. It is meant to improve technical ability by
- aiding in accuracy;
- improving your handwriting;
- expanding your range of
markmaking, and
- getting you to see through
another artist's eyes and to see how this artist solved problems.
Here are some suggestions of
artists to copy:
Durer
Holbein
Bruegel
Leonardo
Michaelangelo
Titian
Rubens
Ingres
Degas
Seurat
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Self-portrait
(Wed, 3 Mar 1999)
Measure your head, and where
your features fall. Do not guess; measure. Draw in your entire head
-- not your face, or you won't get the placement correct. Remember
that the spacing between your features is as important as the features
themselves. Do not overemphasize details like eyelashes, and try
to get values correct.
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Portfolio
reviews
(midterm due Wed.,
March 10)
Show yourself to your best
advantage, first in terms of work, and second in presentation.
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Homework
1) dark drawing
2) copy of master's drawing
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Class
drawings
1) a drawing that shows good
composition (full use of space)
2) dark drawing
3) egg drawing
4) dual viewpoint drawings
5) one-point perspective drawing
6) best gesture drawing
7) best figure study
8) anything else you think
I should see (e.g., was your negative-space drawing particularly
successful? did you have more than one still life that you felt
really worked, or where your proportion was particularly good?)
Grading Criteria:
- Technical ability:
is proportion, relative scale, and sense of space believable?
for value, is there a difference between lights and darks (difference
between egg studies and regular still life in tone?); gesture
okay? do objects appear volumetric? can you create an edge without
an outline
- Aesthetics: line
quality -- does it vary in thickness, or are you still doing a
flat outline and filling in? is there a range of value? any inventiveness
or suggestion? expression?
- Composition: is there
an understanding of composition, and does it vary (overall, dynamic,
static); does the artist really consider the entire picture plane;
and are compositions balanced and cohesive? is scale considered?
- Presentation: Remove
stray marks, spiral edges, etc.
- Effort/ambition:
attendance, work in on time, concentration in class, motivation
outside of class; do you ever go beyond the assignment?
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Egg
studies
(3 hours, for your
portfolios on Wednesday)
draw from life
use graphite pencil
do not smudge -- value must
be built up by slow painstaking mark-making
do not outline shadow and then
fill in area; determine where shadow falls and do slow buildup of
value out to that edge without an outline to guide you
edges of eggs need to be smooth,
not rough, in order to maintain their "egg-ness"
shading must be nuanced (4
tones of gray, minimum): highlight, base tone, halftone, quartertone;
don't forget reflected light on the bottom
remember, the flat plane on
which egg is resting should be treated with flat strokes;
the egg should be shaded in
the direction of its plane, which is rounded; so here use light
buildup technique and slowly build value (slowly darken) by feathery
cross-hatching.
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Figure
drawing
(Sun, 7 Mar 1999)
USE ENTIRE PAGE: FILL YOUR
PAGE
Decide on composition: what
do you want in your drawing? what do you want to leave out? Is that
foot left outside the picture plane on purpose, or did you just
run out of room?
Concentrate on the spine first
and foremost
Go from large shapes to small
shapes (i.e., don't start with the eye and work out: start with
the spine, torso, and work out from there); Don't start with the
ARM!
Use your pencil or ruler as
a guide to proportion
Use your arm, not your fingers
Start light, go heavy later
on
Go in with definite shading,
not all-over or equal smudging: make decisions on what you will
be doing
Use your eraser as a drawing
tool and as a way to eliminate mistakes: don't be afraid to correct
yourself; get used to the process of putting in and taking away
Move away from your drawing
and see whether you have described basic shapes, basic movement,
basic overall structure of the human form: Squint, Squint, Squint
Look at the way other artists
have solved problems
Think about your line quality,
if in fact you are using line. Vary your line in weight, and try
for continuous, beautiful line in certain areas.
The scratchy sketching line
has its place, but should be confined, not used as the only way
to approach a drawing. Try to eliminate the use of a strong outline,
and start defining the form with shading, erasing, implied line.
You don't have to finish every
line for it to continue in the viewer's mind.
Emphasize light: what are the
darkest parts of the body? Get this by squinting. Drawings will
be stronger if correct lighting is in place: all-over or equal lighting
tends to be boring
Use area outside the figure
to define the figure: look for lights and darks, not outline, that
can define the figure. Use the negative space as a way to check
for accuracy in your drawing.
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Leaf
studies
(Wed, 24 Mar 1999)
There should be at least two
leaves in this work: one leaf to scale, and one leaf at least two
times life size (can be hugely blown up if you wish). Make sure
you make enough time to do a good job on this work. As I'm sure
you noticed on the leaf study on Monday, these drawings can be very
time consuming.
Make sure you have a finished
composition, and that you are playing with the idea of scale. Think
about interesting compositions on this. Some suggestions: overlap
the leaves; use a very blown up scale almost as a background texture;
place a to-scale leaf on the left, same one blown up on the right
-- composition is wide open here, so be creative and try to set
your own premise before you begin.
Make sure that you have an
interesting and varied line quality. Bring in traces of natural
color if you wish, or attempt this in color if you wish. You may
keep this a black and white drawing also. If you do decide to do
a color drawing, make sure you watch for changes in value just as
you do in a charcoal drawing.
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Color
in a nutshell
(Wed, 24 Mar 1999)
Color wheel:
Primary: red yellow
blue (magenta yellow cyan for photography and graphic design); remember,
we're dealing with pigment here, so there are many blues, reds,
and yellows
Secondary: orange green
purple
Tertiary: the stuff
in between
Complement: opposites
on the color chart (like orange and blue: they'll bounce off each
other and create dynamic color relation when placed side by side,
but turn each other to a muddy tone, or lower the intensity, when
mixed)
Earth colors: mixed
secondaries on color wheel of photography and GD, but clays and
other earth pigments for our purposes (burnt sienna, raw umber,
yellow ocher, etc.)
Stuff to keep in mind when
you're working:
- Value: dark vs. light; add
white or black (tints, high value, white added; shades, low value,
black added)
- Intensity: dull vs. bright;
pure unmixed pigment: lower intensity by adding a gray or complement
(or near complement)
- Transparency vs. opaqueness
(try to make sure for now that you always have these elements
in the same drawing)
- Associations of color and
emotional implications: You came up with great lists of color
associations: try to remember the negative and positive connotations
of color; remember also what happens when you add white to a color;
the associations for red are completely different from those of
pink, for example.
Today we worked, or were supposed
to work, with a:
Monochromatic palette:
one color for the entire drawing, using white and black to darken
and lighten and change the intensity. The purpose here is to get
you to see value (light/dark) in color. Now that you're working
in color, an empty area will appear even emptier. You must deal
with the entire drawing -- the entire surface of your paper -- or
your drawing will not work as a composition. So, in other words,
if you were working in green today, you should have a green drawing.
Complementary palette: you'll
use opposites on the color chart to create entire drawing (e.g.,
blue-orange, green-red, yellow purple).
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Landscape
drawings
(Wed, 31 Mar 1999)
Please go to the library this
weekend and look at landscape drawings; try to figure out what I
meant by the value changes that lead your eye back into space. It
should become more obvious to you when you see how other artists
have handled this. Something you all need to think about with landscape
is that the ground itself and the sky are the two most important
elements, so you need to learn not to rely on objects to create
the drawing. You need to rely heavily on value and texture changes.
Please also look at classical Asian landscapes: there's a lot to
be learned from them in atmospheric perspective (not to mention
aesthetics).
On Monday, be prepared to work
outside again, this time on two-point perspective. If the weather's
not good or the ground is soggy, we'll work on color in a still
life.
I'd like you to think about
a three-part series for your final project; choose something that
we've done in class that interests you. Maybe it will be the same
still life at 3 different times of day; maybe scale will be the
theme; maybe same still life at different eye level. What I am looking
for is three drawings that will hold together as a group of related
drawings.
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Reflective
surfaces
(Tue, 13 Apr 1999)
Work on reflective surfaces
and concentrate on structural elements of objects. Start looking
at reflective surfaces (metals and glass, even some sythetic fabrics),
and tray to look at patterns of light and color.
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Series
(Wed, 14 Apr 1999)
Final projects are three related
drawings (a series);
Here are some of the projects
being done in this class; some people are using color, some black
and white:
- self portraits (different
light)
- figure studies (different
light, different angles)
- greenhouse studies (using
different light
- silverpoint studies (2 or
3 small drawings on 3 different sheets of paper)
- progressive-color still
life (monochromatic, complementary, full color)
- still life under 3 lighting
conditions and 3 different perspectives
- same subject matter, 3 treatments:
contour, line with shading and detail, full color
- scale and dissimilar objects
- 3 viewpoints in progression
of color
- reflective surfaces
- cross sections of fruits
(color)
- still life in monochromatic
color in primary colors
Your first drawing is due Monday;
please also have thumbnail sketches of possible compositions. Plan
the series if you can. If you do not feel that thumbnail sketches
are not appropriate to your series (e.g., you're working on foliage
and just slugging through trying to understand the color green),
then maybe write down what you think your approach will be to the
second and third drawings, just as a planning measure. I will not
be grading these drawings until they are all together and completely
finished. Monday's drawing is for input by the class and from me,
and for me to make sure you're on track. If you do not have a drawing
for me to look at that's pretty far along, however, I will count
it as being late. You need to get right on this.
Please make sure you have a
written statement to me by tomorrow, Thursday. Call me (328 6635)
or e-mail me if you need help in deciding on your project. Try to
find something that interests you. I do not care about how big or
small the drawings are, but I will say that if they are small, they
need to be exquisite. I will be looking at how hard you worked on
these, and I expect a lot of time to go into these. It will be worth
it to you.
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Final
review
(Sun, 18 Apr 1999)
Here's what I want in the final
portfolio. Please be ready to work on gesture tomorrow -- we're
talking loose work from the shoulder, standing at the easel, very
active. We'll be modeling for each other.
Please put 9 of these 11 subjects
in your final portfolio, along with your final project. You may
add more pieces if you wish; do not put in fewer pieces
- gesture study
- self portrait
- figure study
- drapery study
- leaf study
- landscape
- color work
- monochromatic study
- complementary study
- greenhouse study
- white study
- reflective surfaces
I will be looking at
- whether you can create an
edge without necessarily using line
- effective use of the picture
plane (composition and positive/negative space)
- range of value and color
(did you bring in enough color? did you mix enough?)
- technical considerations:
proportion, scale, light, and volume
- aesthetic considerations:
varied line quality, surface, texture, and value
Presentation: 2 drawings of
your choice MUST be window matted. Make sure all of the rest of
your work is clean, extraneous marks removed, flat (unless work
is really to big to fit into portfolio), and edges trimmed
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Gesture
(Wed, 21 Apr 1999)
Class today: we worked on the
model. Anyone who did not come today needs to make up gesture work,
and I would suggest going to the South Farms and drawing animals
for 3 hours. This would be great for any of you, actually.
Remember, gesture is NOT outline
drawing, or contour. It is active drawing showing movement and moves
freely throughout the form! It should come from your shoulder, not
from your fingers.
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Landscape
(Mon, 26 Apr 1999)
Today we worked on landscape,
integrating a 2-point study into it (or you could say we did a two-point
building and worked that into a landscape --either way works. Please
finish these off compositionally. They can definitely appear sketchy,
but I want at least a nice, loose composition and a clearly shown
understanding of two-point perspective. These drawings should be
about expression rather than perfect architectural renderings, which
tend to be pretty stiff.
We will return to Carle Park
on Monday, where you can work on any aspect of landscape that you
want (you don't have to do the pavilion, in other words). You'll
focus on light.
For Wednesday, I'm trying to
get a model, if not, we'll work on expressive color.
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